Drying at Home

I was just chatting with a client today about the gorgeous weather and I mentioned that I finally put away all of the winter coats on Sunday. I would normally feel embarrassed that I had left this little task until June but we have had such bizarre weather this spring that I truly feel I was justified in leaving the parkas in easy reach.

Now however, we are well into the start of summer. Many lucky souls have begun enjoying their pools and sharing the joy with their canine companions. Cottage season has begun, and the dogs are dock diving. Many more folks who would not normally consider bathing their dog in the cooler weather break out the hose and kiddie pool and give it a go in the backyard. Naturally, all of this results in a wet dog, otherwise known as the  friendliest creature on the planet.

It may be that you are a free spirit and the prospect of a soaking wet dog doesn’t trouble you in the least. True, physics is a wonderful thing and a dog can shake a great deal of the water off of its fur but, depending on the type of coat your pet possesses, it can take many hours or even days for the dog to dry completely to the skin. This can be problematic for some breeds, leading to itchiness, hot spots, and bacterial or yeasty, smelly skin infections. It is important to note that matts that are allowed to wet and dry undisturbed also become even tighter and more difficult to remove.

You can speed the drying process by using an absorbent cloth or towel to remove as much water from the coat as possible. I like to use chamois cloths to soak up the water, squeezing them through the fur rather than rubbing. A particularly good type of chamois style cloth is called The Absorber. When the cloth is saturated, wring it out and keep sponging. You will be amazed at how much moisture is removed. I always follow up with a traditional towel dry because I think it is the part of grooming that all dogs enjoy the most. Many dogs love it if I lay the towel out flat and allow them to rub and roll themselves along it. For this reason I usually have two towels, one under the dog and one for towelling off. If you are reluctant to use your good linens on Rover, check out Value Village or the Salvation Army stores for used towels. They might be 70’s chique, but your dogs won’t care.

Air and towel drying is best suited for smooth or short coated dogs. All other coats will require a little mechanical aid to dry properly. A hand-held human hair dryer can be used on many smaller dogs, but you must be extremely careful with the heat settings. Most of those dryers are TOO HOT and I have seen the results of what one careless owner did to their poor dog with a hot hair dryer directed too long in one spot. Use one with a “Cool” button, and use an elastic to hold the button down if your hand gets tired. Keep one hand on the dog beside where you are drying, and do not stay too long in one spot. There can really be no excuse for burning your dog.

If you have a larger, hairier dog, it is possible that your pet will still be damp from its last swim by the time it goes for the next one. If you want to avoid the notorious “Wet Dog Smell” (which is caused by bacteria on the skin, among other things), I would recommend first rinsing your dog after it swims in a pond, lake, or chlorinated swimming pool. If your dog is crate trained, one excellent drying method is to use a large box fan in front of the crate to dry your dog with the volume of air. With a wire crate you could place several fans around and on top of the crate. Simple plastic fans are inexpensive, fairly quiet, and safe, but you should make certain that the cords are out of reach and that your dog is never left alone. Never, ever use a heater or heated dryer for this purpose. My favourite fan to use for this is actually a carpet dryer, used for when you have a flood.

If you are short on time and really need to speed up the drying process, consider using a high-velocity dryer. These dryers “blast” the water off the coat with the force of the air speed. They tend to be a bit noisy but have the advantage of drying the dog right down at the skin. You will need to be careful around the eyes, ears, genitals and backside of the dog. There are reasonably priced high velocity dryers for sale at most big box pet stores. You might also check your shop vacuum to see if it has a blower function. You can use that just as well, but make sure there is no debris in the hose or it will blow out onto your dog.

High velocity dryers can be used on any dog, but your dog may need a gentle introduction to the experience. Use patience and bribery, but be assured that it really isn’t a big deal. My dogs don’t seem worried about it at all.

Getting Wet

You can’t be too dainty and be a successful dog groomer. As I mentioned before, grooming comes with a high Yuck Factor. There are bad smells and bodily functions, oozing and stickiness. It is hairy, hot, and humid. A groomer generally doesn’t have a good hair day for long. Most especially, you can’t mind getting wet. I have had days where I end up wet clean through, even down to my socks.

There is a special kind of dog that either has a peculiar sense of humour or a keen sense of fair play. This type is determined that the groomer should be as wet as the dog or the bath is incomplete. They will shake frequently, continuously or, in the case of the smarter ones, strategically. They can not be deterred by a gentle hand on the shoulder or by lifting up one front leg. The dog might be as large as a Newfoundland or as tiny as a Yorkshire Terrier but the size is irrelevant. The big ones can drench a large area with a good shake and the smaller ones learn to slip the grooming restraint and leap into your arms or climb your body when they are at their wettest.

However, I will say that some of my worst and wettest days have been my own fault. I have lost count of the number of times I have dropped the shower nozzle and had it whip around like a wild firehose. Sump-pump style bathing systems are even worse and can make an impressive mess in just a few seconds. Why is it that we always try to catch the hose rather than turn off the water?

In-home grooming has offered a new and exciting way to soak myself. I have been in a great number of bathrooms, most of which are far nicer than my whole house. Many people have renovated their bathrooms to include spa-quality walk-in showers. These huge enclosures have rainfall showers, wall mounted jets, and handheld showers. All of them. In one. I have stood and stared at a half-dozen knobs and dials. Finally, convinced that I have figured out the controls, I make a bold choice, grab the handheld nozzle, turn on the water, and twist a knob.

Generally what happens next is that I am standing directly under the lovely rainfall shower as it comes on. I fumble with the controls, panicked, dodging, dripping, as the dog retreats to the corner of the shower (which can be several feet away in some of these bathrooms) and laughs its head off.

I’ve learned to bring a lot of towels and wear quick-dry clothing, and that's why the ponytail was invented anyway.

Artwork copyrighted by Christopher Cowley, Windchill Studios.

Bichon Frise pet styles

Because curly coats are so much fun to scissor, I have ended up with quite a few Bichon Frise clients over the years. Most pet styles are based on show grooming but are modified to suit the lifestyle of the dog owners. Bichon Frise show clips have changed quite a bit since I began my grooming career. The style has gone from a huge bell type head with long ears to a round head with invisible, incorporated ears, a "bubble" of hair over the eyes, and a neck crest. The current Bichon clip accentuates the expression of the breed by highlighting the dark eyes and nose. It is also a lot of hair for the owners to maintain. As a result, most clients request the Bichon look but without the hair. That can be a challenge.

Hairstyling preferences are also a question of taste. Some owners simply prefer long ears, or want short faces to avoid drippy beards. Some groomers are very rigid about breed styling, and are determined to groom only to the breed profile. I have always felt that my job is to do my best to provide the owners with the clip they want, as long the coat is in the condition for me to do so, and provided it does the dog no harm. The real trick is in interpreting exactly what the owner wants, as their definition of "short" or "long" and mine may not jive. I like to suggest to people that if they see a photograph of a style they like, they should show it to me just as you would your human hairdresser. A photograph at least gives us a visual mutual starting point. This has always worked well for me, with the exception of one time where the lady brought me a photograph of a West Highland White Terrier and wanted her Bichon's head to look just like it. I'm still not sure what my goal there was supposed to be, but it reminded me of the time I brought a photo of Meg Ryan to the hairdresser and the rib-cracking sigh he gave me.

In-Home Grooming: Where do you bath the dog?

“Where do you bath the dog?”

This is usually the first question people ask when they inquire about in-home grooming. The answer is pretty simple: wherever you want! So far I have used bathtubs, jacuzzi tubs, walk-in showers, laundry tubs, and kitchen sinks. As long as the dog can fit comfortably and safely in the space, I will use it and I come prepared.

• I bring my own bathmat with me to avoid scratching the tub and to keep the dog from slipping.
• I use a hair-trap over the drain.
• I have knee-pads for kneeling.
• I have a hose that attaches to most laundry faucets.
• In other areas that have no spray hose, I use my Secret Weapon.
• I bring my own towels and shampoo.
• I dress appropriately and don’t mind getting wet.
• I wipe down and clean up the area when I’m done.

Your dog gets a professional, quality bath in the comfort of their own home and I do my best to leave the room as I found it.

The Return of Supergroomer

The Supergroomer believes that I can lift and move nearly everything I encounter, dogs and furniture especially. She is responsible for my getting stuck on the stairs with a full sized mattress, although I have to say that I could have made it all the way up if the mattress had had a decent handle in a reasonable location.

Since Supergroomer scorns assistance, I have picked up many big dogs without help. I have found that with good form, most dogs can be lifted onto the table or into the tub. I actually tend to lift almost all dogs this way, regardless of their size. Standing perpendicular to the dog, facing its side, I will bend my knees and squat. I reach one arm under the dog’s chest, between the front legs, and place my hand on the shoulder. The other arm reaches under the dog’s abdomen, between the hind legs. I hug the dog to me closely to prevent wiggling and stand up, keeping the dog’s spine level. It is important to bend the knees and not deadlift the dog. It is also vital to avoid twisting and turning. For the dog, a level and close to the body hold will keep them calm and safe.

Beware a panicky dog who still attempts to wiggle and flip around while you are holding them. The torque can cause you to twist your spine. A “helper” dog can also give a little hop, jarring your spine or giving you an accidental headbutt. A very well-behaved dog will often offer to put its front feet up on the table or tub edge. If the dog cooperates and doesn’t change her mind because she thinks it’s funny, you can lift up her back end. Remember to bend your knees.

When I lift or carry a particularly big dog in this way I usually hear a chorus of, “No wonder you have a bad back!” It is true, I do suffer from sciatica and pinched nerves in my shoulder and neck. I would like to point out that the neck and shoulder issues actually come from scissoring and brushing. The sciatica is entirely my son’s fault. I did not develop my back problems until I was a pregnant groomer.

The horrible hormones of pregnancy cause a woman’s joints and ligaments to loosen up and, I suspect, mutate. (I did not enjoy pregnancy, not one little bit.) Loose joints were combined with the lifting, bending, stretching and twisting that normally accompanies grooming, but now occurring with a belly in the way, and the ever increasing weight of my son bouncing happily on my sciatic nerve. One of the most miserable experiences of my pregnancy was not with a large dog, but sitting hunched over my belly trying to groom two tiny little Yorkshire Terriers that I couldn’t quite reach. I ended up with quite a painful back problem that did not abate once my son was born. I tried chiropractic care and it did help somewhat, but I decided to reduce the number of large dogs I was grooming.

On a day when I was running the mobile grooming business and my son was about two years old, I stopped by to have lunch with him at my mother’s house. I bent to pick him up, a little sideways I guess, the way you do when you are going to swing the child up on to your hip, and WHAM! Something snapped in my low back. I actually managed to carefully put my son back down, and then I hit the ground in considerable pain.

Because Supergroomer believes in keeping a stiff upper lip, rub dirt on it, keep the blood flowing, and all that stupid stuff, I finished grooming my scheduled dogs for the day. I’m not sure how, because the mobile vehicle had quite a big step up to get in the back. I went home, took many pills and went to bed. The next day I could barely move. I couldn’t groom for about a week. I could barely do anything for about a week. I couldn’t get in and out of the truck. Going to the bathroom required a serious commitment because it hurt so much to sit down and get up. My husband offered to get barbeque tongs so that I could pull up my pants. I got stuck in our big claw-foot bathtub because I couldn’t make the big step out.

Grooming is very hard on the body and mind. Supergroomer makes it harder. I really have learned from my experiences though I still lift big dogs and my son, who has grown much larger. I listen to my body, and try to keep it strong and fit with yoga, running, and strength training. And I buy a lot of Advil.

Supergroomer

Let me be clear. The Supergroomer is not a classic heroic character. She is usually an antihero, and occasionally a villain. A delusion of heroism that crops up in my mind from time to time, the Supergroomer encourages me to attempt actions that are clearly unwise or beyond my capabilities. She is responsible for most of my physical injuries and definitely for my mental burnout. It is the Supergroomer who says “Yes” when the answer should be “NO WAY”. She can be both the angel and devil on my shoulder, whispering mad ideas mixed with genius so that I cannot tell the difference.

It was the Supergroomer who agreed to groom an enormous Newfoundland on a day when she knew I had no assistant coming in to the shop.

“He is so well behaved,” she said. “You can do it by yourself.”

The dog did have exquisite manners and, like the gentleman he was, heaved himself up and put his front paws on the edge of the raised bathtub. “See! You only have to lift half of him,” the Supergroomer said. With a mighty grunt, like the hammer throwers at the Olympics or that notorious tennis player, I managed to heft the back end of the giant dog up and into the tub. There were lights, purple and red lights, that exploded into my vision along with some serious dizziness and a little disorientation. But he was up there.

I phoned my husband. “What percentage of your body weight are you supposed to be able to lift without killing yourself?” I asked.

“Why? What did you do now?” he said.

“Nothing, nothing. I’m just curious.”

Once my breath returned, I bathed the Newf and used the high velocity dryer to blow out most of the moisture in his coat. Then I tried to get him out of the tub. “Down is easier than up,” said Supergroomer. “Gravity, you know.”

The Newfoundland knew about gravity too. He was big enough that he generated his own field. No matter what I tried, I could not get him to put his front legs on the edge of the tub. Because he was raised up, and incredibly heavy, I couldn’t lift him over the edge myself. Then he had enough. He lay down and I was toast. Practically in tears, I phoned my Dad. “Could you please come over and help me lift a dog?”

My folks lived close by, so the Newf hung out in the tub for a short time while we waited for Dad to arrive. “Holy crap!” he cried. “I thought you needed help lifting a dog up! How did you get that thing up there by yourself?”

The two of us wrestled the dog out of the tub, and I saw those fireworks again. Amazingly, my heart did not explode, nor did I get a hernia. But not from lack of trying.

Artwork is trademarked by Chris Cowley, Windchill Studios

Shampoo

Hello, my name is Stephanie and I am a Shampoo-aholic.

At one time in the salon I must have had twenty-five gallon sized bottles of shampoo and at least as many smaller bottles and samples. Fifteen years ago when I was an apprentice, my teacher used one simple, cheap, no-name line of shampoos. There was a blue one, a green one, a yellow one and an orange one for fleas. They were okay, but they didn’t smell very nice, the dogs usually needed several baths and my hands would crack and peel after a time. When I bought the salon and began purchasing my own supplies, I started to do some research. To my surprise, I found that the variety and quality of pet shampoo now rivals human shampoo. A bewildering variety, in fact.

What makes them different? Why would one variety be superior to another? Which shampoo is appropriate for what dog? Those are excellent questions and a little beyond me to answer in detail. I highly recommend reading BBird’s GroomBlog. She has made quite a study of the chemistry of shampoo and has also written a book on the subject.

I require several different shampoos for different reasons. I keep a basic, all around shampoo, suitable for the majority of dogs that I groom. In addition, I have a gentle whitening, brightening shampoo, used for white and light coloured dogs. I need a medicated shampoo for dogs who have irritations, hot spots, allergies, and greasy coats. I usually have a soap-free oatmeal shampoo for dogs with dry, itchy skin or those who can’t tolerate the medicated shampoo. I have a conditioning shampoo with silicone for dogs with matted coats or those who shed. Finally, I keep a simple, soap-free, colour-free, perfume-free, tearless, hypoallergenic shampoo. This is useful for extra sensitive dogs and owners. I carry the basic shampoo in a medium bottle and the others in small bottles to reduce the weight I carry as an in-home groomer.

I select my shampoos based on many factors. They should be free of animal cruelty. I want them to be effective when diluted to the manufacturer’s recommendations. There is no point in buying a shampoo that is supposed to dilute 50:1 if it is little better than plain water at that dilution. When I say effective, I mean that I want them to get the average dog clean within two baths, one if used with a quality bathing system. Soap-free is a grand ideal but a useless one if the dogs are still dirty. If they are effective, they should not be too drying. I need a shampoo that rinses easily and quickly so that no residue remains to irritate the dog. They should remove odour without being too heavily perfumed if they are a scented shampoo. Scent is pleasant but subjective and many people have serious sensitivities these days. Finally, the coat should respond well to the shampoo and not seem too limp or too tacky when it is dried.

It seems a lot to consider, but I have sampled dozens of shampoos and you would be surprised at the differences between them. Some clean better in hard water than soft water and vice versa. Some seem perfect in every way, but inexplicably make too many of the dogs itchy no matter how well they are rinsed, or give the groomer dry, cracked hands. I once found a really nice shampoo but did not realize it had almond oil as an ingredient. It made the client’s nut sensitive son break out in a rash each time he petted the dog.

Currently I highly recommend the Show Seasons line, the Kelco line, and Best Shot products. They are reasonably priced and have a shampoo solution for any situation. However, with my addiction to trying new shampoos I may have more to recommend in a while.

Talk to the Animals

“Are you getting any answers?” the client chuckled as she passed by the laundry room where I was grooming her dog.

I tend to maintain a continuous monologue as I groom, delivering a play-by-play, coaxing, reasoning, cajoling, and chatting away. (But very rarely baby talk. That gives me the creeps. Even when talking to babies.) Often I ask for the dog’s opinion, or ask if she saw where I laid down my comb. You would be surprised at how many dogs totally know where the comb is, but lie and look the other way. This has been my habit for many years, ever since I discovered that it makes for a calmer, more companionable grooming experience. My theory is that normal, friendly tone of voice is relaxing and reassuring for the dogs. My other theory is that it confuses them.

Confusion as the goal was behind my other habit, which I have had to curb somewhat since beginning the in-home grooming. Singing. I am not an especially good singer. I’m not the worst you’ve ever heard either, and you can generally recognize the tune I am warbling at least. I have a high, squeaky, Snow White type voice that went out of fashion in the 1930’s and is totally unsuited to any music written since. I do love music however, and love to sing along. I can’t remember the words particularly well, so one or two bars tend to repeat endlessly, but I have fun. And nothing perplexes a dog more than belting out a few stanzas of Hot Blooded while you are trimming around their eyes. Confusion distracts from their nervousness, boredom, or plain orneriness and allows me to get the job done.

And since it’s nearly impossible to groom and dance...

Artwork trademarked by Christopher Cowley, Windchill Studios

Audiences

One of the biggest differences between in-home and traditional salon grooming is the potential for your work to have an audience. Most traditional salons gently refuse the owner who wishes to stay during the groom. This is for many reasons, including distraction, litigation and time constraints. Corporate groomers are well aware of the challenges of an audience during the grooming process. They don’t call those salons “fishbowls” for nothing. (Please folks, do not let your kids bang on the glass. And don’t you do it either. Seriously, it’s not appropriate anywhere.) Often the behaviour of a pet is influenced by the presence of the owner, much like kids at kindergarten who kick up a holy fuss while Mom is there and happily run and eat sand in the sandbox the moment her foot crosses the threshold to leave. A refusal to allow the owner to stay can seem suspiciously secretive, but it is not intended to be so. When I owned my salon I often told people that they were welcome to watch me groom any dog but their own.

Working in homes is quite different. While I do ask for a little space if the dog becomes distracted, one of key advantages to having the groomer come to the home is the opportunity to observe. Often owners have told me how much difficulty they have bathing or brushing or even medicating their pets, and express disbelief when I tell them how well-behaved I find Fluffy. They finally get to see how the magic happens. Although so far most people have insisted they don’t need to stay, not one has been able to resist peeking at least once.

In households with children I have suddenly found myself both workman and entertainment. Fascinated by the process, the kids unleash their questions, hardly pausing for the answers and interjecting their own tales and commentary. After listening to my explanation of the bath I was giving her dog, one adorable poppet kept popping her head around the corner to tell me about her My Little Pony who also suffered terribly with seasonal allergies and not only required a medicated bath with a measuring cup, but also a mysterious purple lotion. After watching me dry the dog with my high-velocity dryer, she opted to allow Pony to air dry.

Since often it is children who most desperately wanted to explore the grooming salon, in-home grooming has proven to be ideal. Magic is proven instead to be practise, patience, confidence and elbow grease. And I have had someone to keep me company and prevent me from singing off-key disco to the dog. But more about that another time.

Artwork trademarked by Christopher Cowley, Windchill Studios

De-shedding

To me, de-shedding is a fancy technical term for what we used to call brushing. They have several tools and conditioning solutions out now that are supposed to reduce the amount of hair in your home by a significant amount should you follow their program, and in a way this is completely accurate. That is because their program recommends regular bathing and brushing of the dog every two to six weeks. Many dogs who are considered to be high shedding are also otherwise low maintenance and groomers are lucky to see them every three to four months. The tools that are used certainly have their place and card the coat, pulling out undercoat. However they can be very abrasive to the skin, and extreme care must be used not to irritate the dog.

My tricks for de-shedding depend on the coat of the dog, but are fairly simple. For a smooth, short coat, such as a Boxer, Dalmation, or Boston Terrier, I prefer to use another of my secret weapons:

I have tried any number of rubber curry combs over the years. For some reason, the Kong Zoom Groom beats them all, hands down. It is easy to hold, easy to clean, removes a ton of hair (so much that you get a little worried the dog will end up bald - trust me, it won't), and is pretty cheap.

The Kong Zoom Groom also works well on the shorter double coats, such as the German Shepherd or Labrador Retriever. With heavier coats of that type or longer, like Malamutes, Shelties and Collies,  my preference is to slather them in a conditioner that has a bit of silicone in it, let them sit for a bit and then, before rinsing out the conditioner, use a grooming rake (a wide tooth comb that exactly resembles a little rake) to comb out as much of the undercoat as possible. Hopefully you will have groomed your dog more than once a year and this will not be too difficult. If it should be seriously packed in there, you might need professional (grooming) help.

Once you have removed as much of the coat as possible, cleaned out your tub, and rinsed the dog, you will need to get them dry. Many folks at home just let their dogs air dry but, to remove as much hair as you can, I recommend using a High-Velocity dryer. You can find one at any professional grooming supply company, and also at most dog shows. In a pinch, take a look at your Shop-vac. It probably has a blower feature. If it isn't too stinky, you can use that blower as a dryer. Stay away from the eyes, ears, genitals and backside please. An HV dryer will get down to the skin, and loosen all of the remaining undercoat. Once the dog is totally dry, follow up with the rake again, a slicker brush, and possibly a finer comb.

This process will absolutely make a mess. Fortunately, you already have your Shop-vac handy. These suggestions are meant for pet dogs only, so don't do this to your show dog or your handler will kill me.

For those who are concerned about their dog's reaction to the dryer and who are convinced that all dogs live in fear, I leave you with this video of my dogs.

Secret Weapon!

I have discovered over my many years of grooming that the third most valuable skill you can possess is resourcefulness. The first is patience, that's obvious. You won't get too far in grooming if you can't cope with wiggly puppies, senior dogs with canine dementia, and Golden Retrievers who treat grooming tables like surfboards. The second skill is a strong stomach, and I call it a skill because I believe that you can develop a grooming specific tolerance for disgusting things and still be rather delicate in the rest of your life. And there are many disgusting things about grooming. Career seekers beware.

Resourcefulness. That is what turns a butter knife into a lever, screwdriver, scraper and, if you wash it well, a butter knife. Currently, as an in-home groomer, my secret weapon is this:

A pressure sprayer, easily located and very inexpensive. Mine was found at The Dollar Store, although it was an extravagance and cost $2. Why am I using a pressure sprayer? One of the most time consuming parts of bathing a dog is simply in getting them wet, right down to the skin. Most professional grooming shampoos are also meant to be used diluted, and seem to work better when warm. Using the sprayer, you can mix up the shampoo and apply it directly to the dry dog saving you time, effort and shampoo. Diluted shampoos are easier to rinse, which also saves time and is better for the dog's skin.

Grooming in homes I am also presented with different bathing areas and many do not have hoses to rinse the dogs. The sprayer can be used to rinse also, either using it as a sprayer or by taking the lid off and doing the old fashioned pour method. Not too shabby for $2.